Regensburg is Germany’s best preserved major medieval city, founded by the Romans at the northernmost point of the Danube river, it quickly became a merchant city with important trading links that stretched as far as the silk road. Today it welcomes its guests not only with its medieval flair but countless restaurants, cafés, and bars that line the narrow cobbled streets. It is a beautifully laid-back Bavarian town with charming locals that happily engage with its visitors!
We had the most fantastic start to our weekend in Regensburg with lunch at Storstad which has a lovely rooftop terrace, offering stunning views over the city and Dom. It was a gorgeous sunny day and just perfect to enjoy an al-fresco, three-course-meal at this Michelin-starred restaurant where chef Anton Schmaus focuses on fusion-cuisine. We would have loved to try his 6-course dinner menu but unfortunately, it was fully booked that evening for a wedding – just one more reason to come back one day!
Shortly after lunch, we checked into our apartment at Domresidenz. Located in an old 13th century renovated building in the centre of the charming old town. We chose apartment no. 3 at the very top, overlooking the narrow cobbled streets below. It was very spacious with kitchen, dining, two bedrooms and a bathroom featuring an original 13th-century stone arch. A lovely blend of old and new combining antique furniture, original paintings with modern 21st-century comforts that include a Sonos sound system, high-speed internet, smart TVs with Netflix & a Nespresso coffee machine.
The afternoon we spent strolling through Regensburg’s town centre, a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 2006. The old town is a pedestrian zone with all major sites within walking distance – we initially planned to travel to Regensburg by car but were glad we came by train instead, a car really isn’t needed to discover this quaint small city. Regensburg bursts with Roman, Romanesque and Gothic buildings and churches like the Dreieingikeitskirche, Neupfarrkirche (in the centre of the image above) and the medieval Dom – St Peter’s Cathedral (in the image above to the left).
The inside of the Basilika St Emmeram is particularly beautiful and worth a visit.
It is almost impossible to get lost in Regensburg’s small city centre where everything is about a 10-minute walk apart with many nice independent shops dotted all around.
During the day locals & tourists alike flock to the lovely outdoor spaces of the various cafes, pastry shops and Biergardens.
Café Kaminski was suggested to us by the Domresidenz and became our breakfast spot for the duration of our stay but is also a lovely place to just have a glass of wine.
The number of places to eat and drink is impressive and with two Universities Regensburg has a vibrant nightlife with lots and lots of bars to cater for a young crowd. Hemingway’s is one of those bars where we had a pre-dinner drinks on our first evening in Regensburg.
For dinner, we headed to Sticky Fingers a trendy bar/restaurant which is owned by the same chef as Storstad. The concept is sharing plates that can be ordered a la cart or guests can choose a 6-course surprise menu by the chef – there is no cutlery involved just a pair of chopsticks with which we ate the several little dishes we ordered that night.
The Old Stone Bridge together with the Dom are the city’s main sights which both remain unchanged to this day.
Across the Old Bridge is the district of Stadtamhof which attracts people with its colourful houses, ice cream parlours, and little shops.
A walk along the banks of the Danube led us to Herzogspark, a small park with a beautiful rose garden.
Back at the Steinerne Bruecke, we smelled the sausages roasting at the Historische Wurstkueche below. It is Germany’s oldest sausage place, selling them for the past 850 years. We ordered 6 sausages each with a portion of homemade sauerkraut and enjoyed them at one of their outdoor tables overlooking the Danube.
Another very famous food place in Regensburg is Dampfnudel Uli where you can try another Bavarian delicacy – Dampfnudeln which are yeast based ‘dumplings’ served in vanilla sauce. The plates are huge and almost a main dish in itself rather than just a dessert.
For our last evening, we chose to eat at Restaurant Orphée – a cute French eaterie with a nice laid-back atmosphere & lovely outdoor seating, serving French classics such as Coq au Vin which was absolutely delicious as was the crepe with chocolate sauce.
We ended our last evening in Regensburg with a stroll across the Steinerne Bruecke looking back at the iconic medieval Dom beautifully lit for the night.